![]() ![]() That seems odd, it should be more accurate than that.what's the crown like?.I don't shoot for groups with mine, it is in it's element at somewhere like Sennybridge dropping Fig11s, but it will put every round in a 10" target at 100m easily.Is there much "wobble" in the brake when it is fitted?, there should be some but not excessive. Snayperskaya wrote:My bad, the 24mm brakes are RH s the 14mm ones that are left. If you want the front sight block I have give me a shout, but from memory it is a bare one with undrilled pin holes and I believe it is a Polish one.Įdit.it may be a daft question but is your front sight block definitely pinned?, just wondering as on later Saigas it was retained by two pressed "dimples" on either side.if it is dimpled these have to be drilled out before the sight block can be removed.The sight post can be removed using a two leg bearing puller, a suitable metal plate to sit behind the sight post and a piece of brass rod with one end turned down to 7.6mm to fit inside the barrel and the other end suitably sized so the internal bore of the sight block with pass over it.those sight posts can be very tight and trying to whack the barrel through the post may well be too much for a nylon drift!.failing that find someone with a workshop press, that will soon remove it. **Also applies to AK-100/Saiga series rifles. The thread is indeed integral with the sight block and if you really want to change the front sight block I have a spare one from an AKM knocking about somewhere you are welcome to but I believe the journal size may be slightly different as the AK-100 series/Saiga's use an AK-74 barrel profile.If it helps the AKM FSB journal size is. The brake on the 103-based Saiga the brake shouldn't be pinned and welded, that is normally done on the 104-based carbine in order to comply with barrel/overall length requirement. My old Saiga 103 was accurate with the muzzle brake (as they are designed to be) and was the most accurate of all the AK variants I've owned.The brake will unscrew from the front sight block if you push the detent pin in and unscrew it.bearing in mind it is a lefthand thread and the brake may well be seized on if its never been off.With mine there was no noticeable difference in accuracy with the brake on or off, my Romy AKM is the same. I'd always assumed the traditional slash cut AK brake was threaded onto the barrel - so I don't need nor want to thread the barrel and should be golden? My question is - can I then get an ordinary AK sight block to fit right back on and be left with nothing more than a regular barrel and no threading. So it looks like to remove it all I have to do is unscrew the brake, drift out the sight block pins from right to left, support the sight block in a vice (with adequate protection) and then drift the barrel out of the block with a nylon drift and a hammer. Looking at various Youtube vids it looks like the Saiga's brake is integral with the sight block. However, if it is true and improves accuracy, then I'd like to remove the whole arrangement entirely and just have a sight block up front with no brake or threading for one at all. It's easy to remove to see if that's true. I might be exaggerating but it is fair to say a grouping in my case counts as being on the black of the target somewhere if not all in the same place. I say grouping but the rounds still being broadly in the county of Surrey directly ahead of me may be pushing it a bit. ![]() It's been suggested the muzzle brake is interfering with my Saiga AK 103's accuracy (don't laugh) and is the reason for my large grouping. ![]()
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